Vintage Collars Advertisement 3-30-2011

Comprehending copious collars.

A quick guide to the major styles you’ll find.

The collar is undergoing something of a power shift these days. Gone are the days when the medium-spread ruled the shirt world. Now you’re likely to run into any number of collars. And yes, you can stick with the medium-spread, but you should consider mixing it up a bit. It’ll do you some good.

Medium-Spread
1 The Ainsley or Medium-Spread

The workhorse of the group, this collar is seen in most business settings. It provides a great showcase for neckwear and, if you choose to forego the tie, adds a hint of professionalism to a casual occasion.

Button-down
2 The Button-Down

The classic, versatile look made famous by Brooks Brothers. It revolutionized men’s fashion by attaching the collar directly to the shirt. Can be worn with a tie, although wearing it without one comes closer to its more casual roots.

Clifford
3 The Clifford

If you’re familiar with the button-down collar, then you’ll recognize its shorter cousin, the Clifford. It’s a look that originated in the fifties, updated slightly for today. If you want to wear a tie with it, be sure it’s of the skinnier variety.

Club
4 The Club or Golf Collar

You can recognize this collar immediately by its rounded points. Its name originated because it was worn at Eton and other men wanted to be seen as being part of this exclusive club. Wear it and join the well-dressed club.

Contrast
5 The Contrasting Collar

Also referred to as a Banker’s collar, the Contrasting collar is an ultra-professional look, although it’s been spotted recently on more casual shirts.

English-Spread
6 The English Spread

The collar the Windsor knot was made for. Its wide spread frames the bulky knot perfectly. A traditional English look.

Forward-Point
7 The Forward Point or Straight collar

A classic collar in the business world, the Forward Point can be worn with any style suit or sport coat and is typically worn with a four-in-hand knot, due to its width.

Hamilton
8 The Hamilton

Another version of the spread collar, this one’s a bit more narrow with little room for a tie and often found on more casual shirts, where you’d likely skip the tie.

Londoner
9 The Londoner

If you’re looking to make an elegant cosmopolitan statement, go with the Londoner. It has a very wide spread and as you might expect, originated in the dressy enclaves of the UK.

Tab
10 The Tab

This is a good collar for those who want to show off their tie knot. The tab pulls the collar flat around the neck, allowing your tie to really pop.

Tennis
11 The Tennis

This is a beefier version of the Forward Point collar. Its somewhat traditional look is at home in more formal settings and should be paired with a classically styled lapel. Back in the 1920s, this was one of the workhorses in every gentleman’s closet. Named for when collars were designated by sport.

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TAGS: Ainsley collar | Banker's collar | Button-down collar | Clifford collar | Club collar | Collars | Contrasting collar | English Spread collar | Forward Point collar | Hamilton collar | Londoner collar | Medium Spread | Semi-spread | Shirts | Straight collar | Tab collar | Tennis collar | The Original Polo Button-down

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  • avatar
    PZabriskie
    This is the greatest source of information, ever. Brooks Brothers needs to sell print manuals of this stuff! Amazing Job!
    43 months ago | Report abuse |
  • avatar
    ScottDreyer
    In regards to bow ties, I typically wear a button-down collar. That, to me, reads most Ivy-league. I'll wear a bow tie with a forward point, however, if my ensemble is more trend driven.
    43 months ago | Report abuse |
  • avatar
    AndrewBrantley
    Should be noted that the forward point is also known as a tennis collar. Don't confuse it with the wider Ainsley; I've made that mistake before and it can look less than optimal for men with big necks.
    32 months ago | Report abuse |