Glossary
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A-Line Shape—A style having a close-fitting top and a flared bottom. Often found in Brooks’ skirts. |
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Agate—A variety of Quartz. |
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Ainsley Collar—Contains a 45 to 60 degree angle at the tie space. Used mostly when wearing a necktie. |
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Alpaca—Fiber from an animal resembling a llama that contains fine, soft, shiny hairs. |
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Ancient madder—Goods characterized by deep, muted tones and a suede-like hand. |
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Aniline—An organic base used for many dyestuffs. First distilled from indigo in 1826 by Otto Unverdorben. |
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Antique Brass—Brass that has been darkened by the use of chemicals. Vintage looking. |
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Antique Wash—Process that gives the fabric a worn, slightly washed-out look. |
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Argyle—An intarsia in which at least 2 colors are incorporated into a diamond overlaid by diagonal stripes. |
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Ascot—A wide scarf or necktie that can be worn in a variety of ways. Usually accompanies a tuxedo. |
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Attaché—A type of flap-front briefcase—flap closes halfway down the front and has an attached top handle. |
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Badger Bristles—Short, stiff coarse hairs from the badger. Often used in making high-end shaving brushes. |
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Band collar—A collar having just the neckband, but no collar attached to it. |
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Band end piece—The part of the watchband that connects to the lugs; the band-width is measured by the end piece. |
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Bar stripe—A straight stripe or band that is much longer than it is wide. |
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Barathea—A fabric containing a broken rib weave and a pebbly texture. Oftentimes made from silk. |
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Barrel Cuffs—Single-lined cuffs with a regular button and buttonhole closing. |
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Baseball neckline—A collar similar to that of the uniform worn by a baseball player. |
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Basketweave—Variation of a plain weave fabric in which 2 or more yarns are worked in the warp and weft. Used mostly in shirting. |
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Batik Print—An Indonesian method of dyeing fabric in which waxed areas resist dye and unwaxed areas are penetrated by it. |
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Beechwood—A fabric resembling the color of the beech tree (which has a smooth, gray bark). |
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Belgium Linen—A broad classification for fabrics produced in Belgium. They are woven of fine-quality flax grown in Belgium. |
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Bemberg Lining—Bemberg is a brand name of rayon fabric. Used for our suit and sportcoat linings. Softest, finest lining available. |
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Bengal Stripe—Alternate stripes of equal width; usually white and another color. From Bengal, India. |
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Besom Pockets—Pocket with a stitched fold on both the upper and lower sides. |
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Billfold—Another name for a type of a man's wallet. Flat, made to hold bills and usually folds. |
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Birdseye—Fabric characterized by small indentations produced by the weave that suggest birds’ eyes. |
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Blackwatch—A plaid pattern in hunter/royal/black. One of the more popular tartans today. |
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Blake Construction—Fancy name for the way upper leather is sewn to the sole of the shoe. Denotes a reinforced, well-constructed shoe. |
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Blazer Stripe—A fabric pattern with wide-spaced thin stripes. |
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Bluchers—Shoes where the tongue and vamp are cut in one piece and quarters lap over the vamp and lace together. |
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Bluff Edge—When the edges of a garment are not topstitched. Also called plain edge. |
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Boarskin—Leather of boar (or male pig). Known for its superior quality. |
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Boatneck—Refers to a wide, plain neckline that runs horizontally, front and back, across the collarbone. |
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Boot-cut—A cut that allows the pant legs to fit over a person’s boots. Originally made for and used by cowboys. |
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Boston Bag—A two-handled overnight bag. |
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Boucle—A fabric woven from curled or twisted yarn to produce a looped or knotted surface. |
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Box Pleat—A two-sided fold in a garment resembling a panel—with the edges facing opposite directions. |
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Braces—Suspenders. But without the clips. Braces button. Suspenders clip. |
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Braided—Woven or knitted material used for trimming or binding. |
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Brass—An alloy consisting of copper and zinc in variable proportions. |
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Breton—A fine net used for lace ground. Uses: trimming lingerie, dress accessories & fancy linens. |
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Bridle Leather—Type of leather that is used in traditional Saddlery. made from high-quality, native steer hides. |
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Broadcloth—Plain, closely woven fabric, lighter than poplin, finely textured. Uses: women’s dresses, suits, coats and PJs. |
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Brogue—Low-heeled shoes made of heavy leather, originating in Scotland and Ireland. Known as wingtips in the U.S. |
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Brooksease—Our high-performance, natural, double-stretch wool. Exceptional comfort, ease of movement, and wrinkle resistant. |
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BrooksFlannel—A Brooks trademark—born from a combination of 80% cotton and 20% wool. Remarkably soft hand. |
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BrooksStorm—Specialty-treated, natural fibers. Windproof, water-resistant, lightweight & comfortable. |
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Brooksweave—Brooks Brothers’ first-ever wash-and-wear blended cotton dress shirt . Debuted in 1953. |
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Brushed Brass—Type of textured brass having a matte finish produced by running a wire brush across the surface. |
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Buffalo Check—Design of big squares or blocks, in fairly heavy fabrics. Uses: shirts, outerwear and bags. |
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Burnished—To polish metal with a coarse or smooth cloth. |
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Butterfly Bowtie—Bowtie with flared ends, designed for a small knot. |
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Button-Down Collar—A collar held down at the points by buttons. Introduced to America by Brooks Brothers. |
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Cable—A knitted stitch that resembles a twisted cable. Gives the garment a textured appearance. Used in sweaters. |
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Calfskin—Leather from a young calf. Smooth-surfaced, fine-grained and durable. Does not scuff easily and cleans well. |
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Camel hair—Soft, silky fabric containing camel hair or a similar fiber (Like fine wool). Highest quality—light tan color. |
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Candy Stripe—Equal-width stripes—usually of white and another color. Seen on fabrics used for shirts and sportswear. |
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Canvas—Strong, closely-woven plain weave fabric. Originally used to make sails. |
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Cap Toe—A separate piece of material covering the toe section of a shoe; used on oxford-style shoes. |
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Cardigan—Refers to any sweater or jacket that buttons down the front. Can have a round or V-neck. |
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Cashmere—Wool from the undercoat of the long-haired Kasmir goat. Fine, close weave. |
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Cedar—The wood of a tree from the pine family. Noted for its fragrance and durability. |
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Center Vent—A split in the center lower part of a garment (jacket or skirt). |
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Chambray—Woven cotton, polyester, or rayon fabric with a colored warp and white filling; used for shirts and other apparel. |
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Chamois—A soft suede leather formerly made from the skin of the chamois antelope—now made from sheepskin. |
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Charmeuse—A lightweight silk or cotton dress fabric. Known for its softness and the fact that it drapes well. |
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Chesterfield—Plain-back, slightly shaped overcoat, in either a single-breasted fly-front or a double-breasted style. Named for the 6th Earl of Chesterfield. Considered by many to be the most formal town coat a gentleman can wear. |
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Chiffon—A transparent, sheer fabric in a plain weave. Light in weight—but very strong. Usually has a soft finish. |
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Chronograph—A timepiece with both timekeeping and stopwatch functions. |
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Chukka Boot—Boot that extends above the ankle and fastens with a lace through two eyelets. Rubber or leather sole. |
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Clark Fit—A style of BB Advantage Chinos.® Simple plain front. Straight leg opening. Back welt pockets. |
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Clifford Collar—A shorter button-down with a button on the back of the collar. |
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Collar Stays—Thin brass or plastic strips that run down the inside of the collar to the points to give it a flat appearance. |
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Combed Cotton—Combing is a process that removes all the short fibers, making a material stronger and finer. |
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Coolmax®—A fiber that wicks moisture away from the skin & dries quickly. Lightweight & very breathable. |
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Cord Stitching—Refers to the leather lace overcast stitching on the upper part of a man’s moccasin. |
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Cordovan—Leather made from the muscle beneath the hide on a horse’s rump. Originally made by the Moors. |
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Corduroy—A durable cotton pile fabric with vertical ribs or wales—the less ribs per inch, the wider the wale. |
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Corozo—A durable button made from the South American tagua nut. |
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Cravat—A type of necktie worn by men. Often tied so the long ends overlap vertically in the front. |
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Dobby—Fabric with small figures woven in, such as dots or geometric designs. Found often in tie fabrics. |
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Donegal—A knit or tweed containing course, multicolored yarns that produce a mottled, pebbly look. |
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Double Faced Wool—Wool fabrics that are finished on both sides to confer a supreme quality to the textile. |
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Drop Needle—A type of commercial stitching characterized by parallel lines or other designs at set intervals. |
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Elliot Fit—A style of BB Advantage Chinos.® Pleat front. Relaxed fit. Cuffed hem. French fly. Non-iron. |
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ELS—Extra-Long Staple cotton. Originated in the Southwest US. Known for its luster and silkiness. |
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English Collar—Contains a wide spread and accommodates a fuller knot. Classic English dressing. |
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Epaulets—A strap stitched to, or buttoned on, the shoulder of a garment. Once used to denote military rank. |
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Estrato®—A bi-stretch wool from the Trabaldo Togna mill in Italy. Designed to create comfort and breathability. |
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Feather Edge—Refers to the edges on a belt that aren’t topstitched. |
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Fine Wale—In a woven fabric, this refers to a rib or raised cord, as in corduroy. |
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Fit-and-Flare—A silhouette that is close-fitting at the top, and spreads outward, or flares, at the bottom. |
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Flecked—Containing a pattern of dots. Also refers to a canine coat lightly covered with another color. Same term—different coats. |
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Foulard—A lightweight fabric containing a printed pattern. Often made of silk or cotton. |
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Gabardine—A tough, tightly woven fabric with a twill weave. Used to make suits, trousers and other garments. |
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Georgette—Highly creped sheer silk fabric. Used for dresses and blouses. |
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Georgette—Highly creped sheer silk fabric. Used for dresses and blouses. |
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Gingham—A fabric with dyed yarn introduced at given intervals to achieve block or check effects. |
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Glen Plaid (Glen Urquhart Plaid):—Scottish tartan in which a group of stripes run vertically and horizontally to form a boxlike pattern. |
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Grand Fancy Repp—A richly textured diagonal twill weave resembling a herringbone pattern. |
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Grommets—A small ring used to reinforce a hole through which a fastener is passed. Used in everything from sneakers to pullovers. |
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Grosgrain—A heavy, ribbed fabric—used mostly in ribbon. Usually made from silk or rayon. |
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Guard Stripe—A diagonal fabric pattern of even-width stripes. |
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Gussets—A pocket with a piece of material inserted at the side seam to allow extra fullness. |
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Hairline Stripe—Narrow stripes made by weaving contrasting, single-colored threads with a background color. |
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Half-Canvas—Extends from the top of the shoulder to the top of the pocket & through the lapel, providing shape, structure & resiliency. |
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Half-Canvas Hand-Linked—A method of finishing seams that gives garments a smooth, flat appearance. |
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Herringbone—A broken-twill weave pattern. Creates a zigzag effect. |
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Horn Button—A large button with a smooth, flat back. Made from the horns of an animal. Usually hand carved. |
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Houndstooth—Check with jagged edges resembling a dog's tooth. |
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Hudson Fit—A style of BB Advantage Chinos.® Full, plain front. Relaxed leg opening. On-seam pockets. |
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Intarsia—A flat knit fabric with patterns knitted in solid colors. Derived from the Italian word for “inlay.” |
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Jacquard—A fabric containing an intricate variegated weave or pattern. |
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Kiltie Loafers—A loafer containing a tongue of fringed leather draped over the instep. |
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Lapel—The turned back fabric that falls in front of a jacket or coat. Found mostly on formal clothing. |
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Lawyer's Bag—briefcase with a flap closure, top handle, and inside gusseted pockets. |
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Linen—Fabric made of fibers removed from the stem of the flax plant; probably the first textile fabric to be used. |
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Londoner Collar—The most corporate of our collars—boasting the widest collar point spread of our range. |
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Loro Piana—A fine Italian clothing company specializing in high-end, luxury cashmere and wool products. |
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Madras—A cool, lightweight cloth created by overlapping weaves of alternating colors. |
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Malacca Wood—Stem of the rattan palm tree, used for making canes and umbrella handles. |
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Melange—Different colors of yarn knit together. Often creates a heathered effect. |
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Merino—Breed of sheep known for having fine and soft wool. Produces high quality, short fibers. |
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Milano Fit—Slimmest-fitting style of BB Chinos with a low rise and plain front. European-cut with center front tab closure. |
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Napalan—A type of finish, used mostly on outerwear, that creates a leather-like feel. |
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Nickel—A silver-white hard metal capable of a high polish and resistant to corrosion. |
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Norfolk Back—A sport jacket with 1 or 2 box pleats down the back and a self belt that laces under or over the pleats at the waistline. |
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Notch Lapel—Type of lapel on which the top line slants down in line with the collar seam. |
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Nubuck—Cattleskin that has been given a suede finish to look like buckskin. |
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Nylon Taffeta—Plain weave fabric that is finished smooth on both sides and has a sheen. |
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Oak Leather—Water repellent, dry-milled leather that is vegetable tanned. |
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Off-Seam Pockets—Pocket in which the opening does not lie along the seam. |
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Oil Cloth—A cloth that has been treated with oil or a synthetic resin to make it waterproof. |
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Oil-Tanned—A preserving process for leather in which oil is rubbed into the skin. This process is known as tanning. |
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Onyx—A form of quartz—colors range from black to dark-brown to green. Used to make tuxedo studs & cufflinks. |
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Open Sleeve—A short-sleeved shirt without a rib trim at the end of the sleeve. |
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Peak Lapel—Top line of the lapel slants up from the horizontal line, leaving only a narrow space between the collar and lapel. |
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Peal & Co.—A British shoe company whose name, lasts, and patterns were purchased by Brooks in 1965. |
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Peplum—A short overskirt or ruffle attached at the waistline of a jacket, blouse, dress or skirt. |
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Pin Collar—Collar that contains a pin or bar that goes across the spread and fastens to each point. |
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Pinpoint—Tightly woven fabric with a high thread count. Soft, like a silk or broadcloth. |
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Piqué—A breathable knit typically constructed using cotton yarns, and used for knits and polos. |
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Placket—A piece of fabric that surrounds and reinforces fasteners in a garment. Allows clothing to be put on or removed easily. |
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Ply—Refers to the number of yarns that are twisted together. A higher ply count creates a stronger, more uniform looking yarn. |
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Polo Shirt—A close-fitting pullover with a button placket and a knit collar. |
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Poplin (or tabinet)—Durable cotton made with a plain weave and more pronounced rib than broadcloth. |
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Porcelain—A hard, fine-grained, translucent white ceramic ware that is fired at high temperatures. |
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Portfolio—A hinged cover or flexible case for carrying loose papers, pictures, or pamphlets. |
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Quarter Top Pocket—Also known as slash pockets, the opening edge forms a diagonal from the waistband to the side seam. |
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Quartz Movement—The mechanics of a watch which ensure accurate timekeeping and eliminate the need for mechanical winding. |
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Raglan Sleeve—A sleeve with a seam extending at an angle from the armhole to the collar. |
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Regent Fit—A modern take on the classic BB suit with slimmer lines, a narrower lapel and trimmer trousers. |
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Repp—A fabric with prominent, rounded diagonal ribs. A Brooks staple. |
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Ripstop—Fabric made by weaving nylon threads throughout a base material in an interlocking pattern. Rip and water resistant. |
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Ruana—A woolen covering resembling a cloak. Originally a cape or poncho worn in Peru and Colombia. |
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Rugby Stripe—Alternating stripes of 2 or more colors, wide but of equal width. |
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Saddle Bag—A business case with a full flap front that contains a buckle (resembling a horse saddle). |
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Saddle Shoulders—A knitted garment in which the sleeves are attached with seams extending from the armholes to the collar. |
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Sandwashed—A process using sand to wash either a fabric or finished garment. Creates a slightly worn or faded appearance. |
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Sateen—A smooth, durable lustrous fabric, usually made of cotton in a satin weave. |
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Saxxon—A rare, wrinkle-resistant wool with a distinctive “corkscrew” shape that lends remarkable elasticity |
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Sea Island Cotton—Grown in the West Indies; one of the longest cotton fibers in the world. |
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Self Belt—A belt made of the same material as the rest of the outfit. |
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Self Collar—Refers to a collar that’s made of the same color or fabric as the rest of the shirt. |
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Shawl Collar—A turned-over garment collar that combines with the lapel, forming an unbroken curving line. |
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Shearling—Skin of a tanned sheep with the wool retained. Used for lining material in outerwear and gloves. |
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Shetland—A soft, light, tweed-like fabric made from the fine undercoat of sheep raised on the Shetland Islands of Scotland. |
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Shirring—A gathering of fabric made by drawing up the material along 2 or more parallel lines of stitching. |
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Single Breasted—A suit jacket that has one row of buttons and a closing with a narrow overlap. |
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Soft-Roll Polo Collar—Also called a button-down collar. Invented in England by polo players, thus its name. |
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Split Toe—A lace-up shoe for men that has a seam splitting the toe. Used in formal situations. |
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Spread Collar—Refers to the division between collar halves. Typically seen as quarter, half or small. |
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Straight Point Collars—Go with almost any blazer or suit jacket; work well with smaller knots. |
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Supima—A long-fibered type of cotton that provides a smooth feel. Derived from the term “superior prima.” |
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Tab Collar—Refined style that pulls the collar flat around the neck for a more pronounced tie knot. |
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Taffeta—Plain weave fabric of silk or other fibers that is finished smooth on both sides. Persian for “twisted woven.” |
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Tartan—A plaid design of Scottish origin. Contains patterns of varying widths and colors meant to distinguish between clans. |
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Tennis Collar—Slightly larger and dressier version of Brooks’ classic forward point collar. |
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Tennis Skirt—An elastic-waist, short, slightly flared skirt; very comfortable for easy movement. |
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Terry Cloth—A fabric having uncut loops on both sides. Can be solid or patterned. |
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Thompson Fit—High-performance, straight-fitting chinos in specially treated, wrinkle-resistant cotton. |
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Ticket Pocket—A small pocket on the right-hand side of a jacket or coat—above the regular pocket. A place to put tickets & coins. |
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Tipping—A band or strip of fabric or other material at the edge (neck, sleeve, hem, etc.) of a garment. |
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Toggle—A crosspiece attached to a rope, cord, or chain—designed to be inserted in the loop of a cord as a closure on a garment. |
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Topstitch—Stitching on the exterior or right side of a garment, generally as a design characteristic. |
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Track Stripe—A fabric pattern resembling railroad tracks. |
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Traditional Fit—A generously cut shirt with a box pleat on the back. Loose fitting. Comfortable. |
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Tropical Wool—A smooth wool fabric that is lightweight and airy—perfect for summer clothing. |
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Tweed—A patterned, wool weave. Also one of the earliest forms of camouflage among Scottish hunters. |
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Twill—A weave that creates a parallel, diagonal ribbed effect. |
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Valet Key Fob—A 2-ring key holder. Used when you don't want to give all your keys to the parking attendant. |
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Variegated Check—A multi-colored, woven cloth pattern consisting of crossed horizontal and vertical bands. |
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Venetian Nubuck—Similar to a penny loafer—without a stay across the top. Brushed leather. Suede-like nap. |
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Versatile Plaid—A pattern consisting of colored stripes that cross each other at right angles. |
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Whiffenpoofs—Yale’s famous singing group that was once known to wear Brooks’ “Polo” button-down collar shirt. |
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Windowpane—Stripes running vertically and horizontally—resembles the framework of a window. |
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Wing Collar—A collar style resembling a wing in appearance. Tips of the collar extend out like wings. |
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Wingtip—Low-heeled shoes made of heavy leather—also known as brogues. Originated in Scotland and Ireland. |
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Worsted Wool—More durable than regular wool. Known to hold its shape. Named after the Worsted village in Norfolk County, ENG. |
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Wrap Coat—A full-cut outercoat w/out a button closure, worn wrapped around the body and held in place by a tied or buckled belt. |
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Yoke—A fitted or shaped piece at the shoulders of a shirt. |